Hands-On Review: White Dial Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch

The Omega Speedmaster has been in production since 1957, originally designed as a racing chronograph for motorsports. Its defining moment came in 1965 when NASA selected it as the official watch for all manned space missions after passing a rigorous set of tests including temperature swings, vacuum, humidity, shock, and vibration.

The Speedmaster got its “Moonwatch” name when Buzz Aldrin wore one during the moon landing marking it the first watch wore on the moon. The Moonwatch remains one of the most historically significant timepieces in the Omega lineup staying true to its original design for decades.

The white dial Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch was released early in 2024. This was a significant addition to Omega’s core catalog as previous white dial speedmaster variations, like the 1997 “Albino” and the 2008 Alaska Project, have been limited editions. Beyond the striking dial color, the underlying specifications stay true to the Moonwatch formula.

Technical specifications:

• Case Diameter: 42mm

• Thickness: 13.2mm

• Material: Stainless steel

• Lug width: 20mm

• Crystal: Sapphire crystal (front and caseback)

• Water resistance: 50 meters (5 bar)

• dial color: white lacquer

• Movement: Manual wound Co-Axial Caliber 3861

• Power reserve: Approximately 50 hours

• Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)

• Jewels: 26

• Certification: Master Chronometer certified (METAS approved)

The white lacquered dial transforms the entire character of the Speedmaster. Where the classic black dial has a tool-watch look and feel, the white dial packs more of a punch, allowing the wearer to be able to dress it up more than the black dial. The lacquer finish enhances legibility compared to a glossy finish. The contrasting black hour markers and hands help the dial remain clear and readable. The sunken sub-dials are subtle, but they add a layered depth to the dial that you don’t fully appreciate until you see it in person. The little touches of red throughout—on the chronograph hand and ‘Speedmaster’ labeling—provide just enough visual flair without overwhelming the clean aesthetic. This is a watch that fully lived up to the hype.

Flip the watch over to reveal the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 3861 in all its glory. The exhibition case back provides a full view of the beautifully executed movement, making it genuinely difficult to resist spending time admiring it.

At 42mm, the Speedmaster isn’t small by modern standards, but it wears remarkably well thanks to its short, downward-sloping lugs, which give the watch a lug-to-lug measurement of only 47.5mm. To put that in perspective, the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical has a 38mm case

diameter with a 47.7mm lug-to-lug measurement, while the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra measures 41mm across with a 47.91mm lug-to-lug. The Speedmaster maximizes dial size without extending the overall length of the watch, allowing it to sit confidently on smaller wrists without overhang or awkwardness.

The bracelet deserves special mention—it’s genuinely one of the best Omega has in production. Comfortable, well-finished, and stylish, it tapers 5mm from case to clasp giving the watch a more refined profile on the wrist. The clasp offers only a few millimeters of adjustment, but on hot summer days when your wrist swells slightly, those few millimeters make all the difference.

There isn’t much I’d change about this watch, but I’d question the 13.58mm thickness. That’s not excessive by any means, yet for a modern day manual-wound movement, it feels like the most obvious area for improvement. On the other hand, the crown guards, while providing nice visual symmetry to the case, can interfere with winding—though you get use to it after a while.

The white dial Speedmaster variant currently lists for $9,100—a steep jump considering it’s $1,000 more than just a year ago. And it’s not only the Speedmaster; Omega has raised prices multiple times over the past year, which begs the question of whether better value exists elsewhere at this price point. The 39% US tariff on Swiss watches played a part in the price increases, but after the rate dropped to15% and we still saw price increases, a part of it seems like the tariff could have just been an excuse to raise prices. That said, the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch remains one of the most recognizable and iconic watches in horological history. If owning a piece of that legacy appeals to you as it does to me, the premium may well be justified. I recommend this watch to anyone who enjoys historically significant watches with a slightly unique twist on it.

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